Eating in a restaurant in Cuba is a curious adventure, for want of a better word. The island's cuisine has long suffered from a lacklustre reputation, which isn't surprising considering the days of the Special Period when food was rationed, but modern developments mean that change is being felt here.
Privately run restaurants have created a buzz around 'New Cuban' cuisine, and feasting has become one of the best things to do on this most fascinating of islands. From fine dining in sumptuous flats to trendy tapas bars, here are the best restaurants in Cuba.
La Guarida, Havana
What is La Guarida? This upmarket restaurant is on the top floor of a run-down building in Habana Centro. In its three opulent rooms, you can enjoy contemporary Cuban dishes amongst old cinema props.
Why go there? If it's good enough for Sting, Jack Nicholson and Prince Albert of Monaco. This is the granddaddy of Havana's paladares, in existence for 75 years and always sold out most nights. The views of the city alone are worth the diversions, but fortunately the 'signature' dishes like papaya lasagne, suckling pig and chocolate fondant are just as impressive.
Price: Coup de cœur
Otramanera, Havana
What's Otramanera? A couple of artists and sommeliers left the Costa Brava to launch this gourmet restaurant, which nods to its roots with its Spanish-Cuban fusion menu.
Why go there? Sommelier Alvaro Diez trained at the legendary Catalan restaurant El Bulli, and as you can imagine, the wine selection at Otra Manera is excellent. The menu uses organic produce sourced from a local farmer. Otramanera, one of the stylish new players on Havana's private dining scene, offers seating in its minimalist interior or in its tropical garden.
Price: High price
Restaurante Sol Y Son, Trinidad
What is it? Sol Y Son serves seafood and meat specialities cooked over charcoal in one of Trinidad's picturesque colonial houses.
Why go there? In a city known for its old-world charm, Sol Y Son's courtyard is perfect for a romantic dinner, complete with fountains, candles and bougainvillea. A local band playing lively Cuban music adds to the atmosphere.
Price: Medium
Finca Paraiso Agroecologica, Viñales
What it is: What could be more enjoyable than a meal on an organic farm in the hills of Viñales?
Why go there? Being family-run, Finca Paraiso Agroecologica is the kind of place where you should feel right at home. Sit back, relax and focus all your attention on the stunning views and the wonderfully fresh ingredients in the meal you're eating.
Why not try their 'stress cocktail' while you're at it? A blend of herbs, aniseed, coconut milk and rum.
Price: Inexpensive
El Cocinero, Havana
What it is: El Cocinero's loft-style dining room and rooftop terrace are in what was once a cooking oil factory, next to an art gallery and nightclub.
Why go there? This is the pinnacle (literally) of the trendy Vedado district. Once you've climbed the spiral iron staircase, you're guaranteed impeccable service, contemporary artworks and refined dishes. Tuna carpaccio and duck blinis can be followed by grilled lobster or filet mignon with creamy pumpkin.
Price: High price
Restaurante Villa Lagarto, Cienfuegos
What is it? A guesthouse on the bay of Cienfuegos with a popular restaurant, this place serves hearty portions of pulled pork, kebab shish and more.
Why go there? Talk about dining with a view, Villa Lagarto's waterfront setting is sensational, with open-air tables right down to the water's edge.
Its meat dishes are an essay in uncluttered perfection, simply sprinkled with herbs and grilled, steamed or barbecued. The fruit and vegetables are all sourced from nearby organic farms.
Price: Medium
Café Arcangel, Havana
What it is: Charm is the order of the day at this pretty café.
Why go there? Enjoy coffee and cake with a difference at Café Arcangel. The tables are all made from old Singer sewing machines, Charlie Chaplin films are shown on a centrally placed (but not intrusive) TV and there's a house cat called Buona Fortuna ('good luck').
Price: Bargain
El Café, Havana
What is it? Good things come in small packages at this all-day restaurant in Habana Vieja. There's no sign, just follow the aromas of coffee beans and bacon.
Why go there? This is where you'll find the best breakfast in Havana: everything from toast and granola to a plate of eggs, homemade sourdough bread, cheese, tomatoes and cucumbers. The fresh juices and coffees are delicious (the owner cut his teeth in the London flagship of Allpress), and there's a resident cat to keep you company.
Price: Inexpensive
La Redaccion, Trinidad
What is it? Located in Trinidad, the French owners of La Redaccion work with "whatever the fisherman or farmer brings" to concoct their daily menu, which changes every day. Curious about the old newspapers hanging on the wall? They are cuttings from the local newspaper El Liberal, which used to be published and printed in the house.
Why go there? Travellers can swap stories and make friends around the huge communal table. As well as daily specials, there are always a few must-try options on offer: lamb burgers with sweet potato fries, stone-oven lobster tails and spicy pork belly.
Price: Medium
Casa Miglis, Havana
What is it? An eccentric place to enjoy a fun meal.
Why go? Unless you're a dedicated foodie, we reckon you've probably never tried Swedish-Cuban fusion cuisine. Well, you're in luck, here's your chance. This place is owned by a Swedish music video director and the menu is just as eccentric as the decor (chairs on the walls holding up nicknames and a stage made of old Coca-Cola adverts). Try the traditional Swedish meatballs with lingonberries.
Price: Medium
O'Reilly 304, Havana
What it is: Imaginative cocktails and innovative dishes with a Mexican twist have quickly made this gem of a place one of the city's most popular spots.
Why go? The garnish game is strong, with lime peel spiralling in cocktail glasses and rose petals floating in G&Ts. On the food side, the ceviche was voted the best in town by Havana Insider, and the tacos are top-notch too. Whether you're sitting by the bar or on the mezzanine, this place is always lively.
Price: Moderate
El Romero, Las Terrazas
What it is: A rarity in carnivorous Cuba, this vegetarian restaurant puts an innovative spin on local organic or foraged ingredients.
Why go there? Located in the eco-village of Las Terrazas, the dreamy valley views complement the imaginative vegetarian dishes, including tempura vegetables, stuffed bean crepes or the house speciality, boliche (balls of yuca and sweet potato puree in a creamy sauce).
Can't decide? Most dishes come in three sizes to suit different appetites, so choose small portions and try the whole range.
Price: Medium
Buena Vista Curry Club, Havana
What is it? Cuba's very first Indian restaurant has landed in Old Havana. You'll find all the classic curry options as well as some iconic Cuban dishes on the menu.
Why go? As if the perfectly spiced curries, flaky samosas and freshly baked naans weren't enough, there's something special about the restaurant's musical offerings. Three nights a week, members of the Buena Vista Social Club take to the mezzanine and get the feet tapping; on other nights, it's live jazz.
Price: Medium
El Chiquirrin, Matanzas
What it is: Bringing the 'new Cuban' trend to the coastal town of Matanzas, El Chiquirrin has impressed diners with its fresh take on the national dish since opening in 2014.
Why go. It's easy to miss the understated exterior of this restaurant near a bridge on the outskirts of town, but once inside, the delicious seafood and sophisticated setting (think: live pianist and starched tablecloths) make for an unforgettable evening. Watch the chefs at work in the open kitchen, preparing specialities such as lobster with plantain.
Paladar La Cuenca, Viñales
What is it? Perch on the shady terrace of this corner restaurant to watch the goings-on in the village of Viñales, or dine in the bold black-and-white interior with a view of the open kitchen.
Why go? The eclectic menu offers everything from Spanish tapas to rack of lamb, but the star of the show is the seafood platter: crab claws, mussels, grilled fish, octopus and prawns coated in garlic butter. Add a chilled Cristal beer and you've got it.
Price: Medium
Pauli, Santiago de Cuba
What it is: Check out the daily specials on the chalkboard at this cosy spot in Santiago de Cuba city centre, where you'll usually find hearty Cuban classics.
Why go there? Cuba isn't always keen on vegetables, but you'll find several good meat-free options here, such as aubergine parmigiana.
The glass-enclosed kitchen allows you to watch the chefs as they prepare other tasty dishes, such as octopus, ropa vieja or gazpacho.
Don't leave without trying the fresh coconut ice cream, served straight from the shell.
Price: Medium
Bistro Bar Atlantida, Varadero
What it is: Pull up a chair on the airy patio of this Varadero café-bar and enjoy the relaxed atmosphere - you are in Cuba's premier beach resort, after all.
Why go there? The friendly service from the trilingual staff is appreciated, as is the varied menu, which ranges from carbonara to quesadillas. The burgers and garlic prawns often get rave reviews.
Price: Inexpensive
Café Bohemia, Havana
What it is: This pretty café with a courtyard, just off Plaza Vieja, pays tribute to Ricardo Saenz, the late deputy editor of the Cuban arts magazine Bohemia.
Why go here? This place is an escape from the tourist crowds of Old Havana and a popular meeting place for Cuban creatives.
Healthy options on the Mediterranean-influenced menu include a breath of fresh air, caponata, hummus with crudités, antipasti and salads, or linger with a book over a rum coffee or a jazzy G&T (garnishes include peppercorns and rosemary).
Price: Medium
El Dandy, Havana
What's El Dandy? A hip, retro corner café that's particularly popular with 20-somethings.
Why go there? Relax at El Dandy. After all, that's the vibe in this laid-back place. The furniture is all artfully mismatched, the walls are covered in cool prints and tiles, and the menu is more than satisfying. Spend a few hours here in the evening, sipping mojitos, eating tapas and talking the night away.
Price: Cheap
Café Laurent, Havana
What it is: Don't judge a book by its cover - the antique lift in this dilapidated building takes you up to an elegant modernist dining room on the fourth floor.
Why go there? Chef Dayron Avilés Alfonso's Spanish-influenced menu excels in seafood, from paella to red snapper in green sauce. The 50s furniture and newspaper clippings give the place a retro feel, while the balcony offers great views of Vedado and the sea.
Price: High price
Favourite
Finca Paraiso Agroecologica, Viñales is our favourite for those who love hot drinks. This restaurant serves anti-stress herbal teas made from various plant extracts (verbena, camomile, etc.).
FAQ Restaurant Cuba
What are the names of the restaurants in Cuba?
In Cuba, a paladar (plural: paladares) is a small family restaurant. The name comes from a Spanish word meaning palace. Paladares serve as a counterpart to state-run restaurants for tourists seeking a more lively interaction with Cuban reality, and who are looking for home-cooked Cuban food.
What do Cubans eat for dinner?
Meat is ubiquitous in Cuba, so chicken or fish is usually the main course for dinner. It is almost always served with white rice, black beans and fried plantains. A small salad of sliced tomatoes and lettuce may also be served.
What can't you eat in Cuba?
Don't eat raw vegetables, fruit or eggs. These are all considered high-risk foods and are good examples of what not to eat in Cuba. The International Association for Medical Assistance to Travellers (IAMAT) gives this advice: "Boil it, cook it, peel it or forget it".
