In John Crowley's 2015 film, Brooklyn was excellently portrayed by none other than Montreal. This vibrant city has earned the name "the new Seattle", thanks to its progressive art and music scene. Adding to its exciting urban vibes, Mayor Denis Coderre implemented 24/7 retail services throughout the downtown zone every day of the year, transforming it into the newest "city that never sleeps".
The city of Montreal, situated on an island in the St Lawrence river, has always been a hotspot for seekers of a good time. Conveniently accessible by train from New York, it was the go-to place during the prohibition era, giving it a reputation for endless revelry and loose rules. It remains true to this day and offers over a hundred summer festivals, many of which are available to the public for free. Its appeal is further upped by the chic lodging options on offer like the ALT Hotel (Prices from £100, room only), the downtown Renaissance (Prices start at £155, room only), and other excellent hotel choices that cater to every preference and budget. Gear up for a trip to Montreal as WestJet and Wow Air have introduced budget-friendly flights starting from just £145 and £99 respectively, from London Gatwick. As more people look towards the North American continent for their next big break, Montreal is sure to sit high up on that list. Whether you're seeking a luxurious stay or a more economical option, you can find a suitable hotel to make your visit comfortable and memorable.
In the stylish Alt Hotel, I uncovered the vibrant flavor of Montreal.
Old Montreal, the city's historical heart, is commonly visited by tourists. It's filled with fascinating museums, features quaint Rue St-Paul with its 17th-century cobblestones, and heads the awe-inspiring Notre Dame basilica dating back 200 years. Tour of Old Montreal may be coordinated throughfitzandfollwell.co starting at a reasonable £41 per person. Looking past the harbor unveils the Biodome (£10.50 for adults, £5.40 for children) where a remarkable simulation of the Americas' four major ecosystems is housed, ranging from the southern rainforests to the northern polar peaks.
The Latin Quarter has good restaurants and fun bars, such as the 1920s-style speakeasy En Cachette. Venues such as La Sala Rossa and the Fairmount Theatre host live music every night of the week. And for outdoor fun, there are 217 miles of cycle paths, hundreds of parks (including Mount Royal, with views across the city), the nine-mile Lachine Canal for kayaking and canoeing, and one of the world’s best standing river waves – surfers can ride this continuous wave on the St Lawrence river all day, without moving an inch.
All of which is great, but it’s not where the real action is. The new spirit of Montreal lies on the periphery, in former industrial districts such as Mile End, Saint-Henri and Little Burgundy, where vibrant artist communities are shooting up like flowers from the pavement.
Alternative tours by Spade & Palacio
To explore them, I took a different kind of tour. Rather than traditional sights and histories, Danny Pavlopoulos, co-founder of Spade & Palacio, offers a look around his home turf, the Plateau district, just north of downtown (spadeandpalacio.com, from £47pp including food and drink tastings). We had pastries in his local Café Le Dépanneur (206 Rue Bernard Ouest), which is also Montreal band Arcade Fire’s coffee-stop of choice. We swung by his favourite brewpub, the Dieu du Ciel for a glass of Péché Mortel (deadly sin), a thick coffee-infused stout (my favourite, though, was the very hoppy Babylone IPA at Montreal’s first microbrewery, Le Cheval Blanc) and tried the unofficial favourite food of Quebec province, poutine. This is cheesy chips and gravy, but somehow infinitely more delicious: Patati Patata (4177 Boulevard Saint-Laurent) is the locals’ favourite.
Indulge in a traditional delicacy of poutine that combines fries, gravy, and cheese curd into an irresistible treat.
Danny was my guide, introducing me to prime shopping spots like Clark St Mercantile. With a focus on independent brands, Clark St Mercantile is also home to an exclusive in-house clothing range. He introduced me to Alexandraplatz Bar, a unique pop-up bar nestled inside a repurposed warehouse in the Mile-Ex district, known for its mesmerizing sunset views. Evenings spent here are made more vibrant with their outstanding cocktails. But the cherry on top was the revelation of Piknic Electronik, the ultimate venue for unforgettable summer parties. This outdoor spot on Ile Sainte-Hélène hosts DJ sets every summer Sunday, with affordable tickets starting around £7. Throughout our tour, Danny was greeted warmly by the locals, and I had the chance to mingle with his friends. Montreal, the city of camaraderie, definitely didn't disappoint.
My journey took me next to the vibrant area of Little Burgundy, and its neighboring Griffintown. This dynamic pairing of former working-class neighborhoods is reminiscent of what the city's Mile End district was a decade ago — a brimming hub of creativity with just a dash of an edgier side. Food connoisseurs are quickly realizing that these districts are rising to be a culinary epicenter in Montreal. There are culinary landmarks like Joe Beef and Liverpool House, sibling restaurants located on Rue Notre Dame Ouest, that embody Montreal's culinary offering of simple, yet superb food. The highly-praised lobster spaghetti and oyster selections at its seafood bar have earned it the reputation it holds today. But the emerging stars are worth a visit too. Take for instance, the daring Le Fantome on Rue William, famed for delightfully juxtaposing peanut butter and jam sandwiches with foie gras, or the trendy cafe-bakery hybrid, La Bête à Pain which recently inaugurated a new location further up on Rue Young, Griffintown.
A Taste of La Bête à Pain
Montreal is home to a number of remarkable cultural spaces. Notably, the warehouse-inspired galleries like Arsenal and Division Gallery, both nestled on Rue William, may not be as large as the mainstream museums downtown, but pack a greater punch in terms of innovation. Up until 3rd July, for instance, an immersive exhibition titled Automata, which uses virtual and augmented reality to explore the influence of artificial intelligence on art and culture, is on display.
Montreal finds itself in a unique position - a place caught in the midst of a language divide. Here, French is the authorized language, while English remains equally prevalent. The city can be likened to the merging point of two rivers, where portions of the water meld seamlessly, while certain parts continue to remain separate. This duality adds to the city's intrigue.
Montreal is a city marked by a vibrant mural close to the waterfront
Russ Cooper, a famed guitar player from the city, once artfully compares residing in Montreal to being in a relationship with someone diagnosed with borderline personality disorder. The French characteristics permeate through its veins: pubs take the form of classic brasseries, chippies serve up artisanal frites, and the bakeries can give those in Paris a run for their money. One such pastry shop, Point G, stands out for its unmatched macaroons; it's so exceptional that they've cheekily named it the G-spot. Yet, Montreal adds its own unique spin to the French influence. It is home to high-end eateries hosting waitstaff draped in tattoos, local craft beers that give wine with the appellation controlée designation a serious competition and a culinary scene that deskews from tradition, favouring experimentation and freshness instead.
This is Montreal's magic: the creation of unique experiences from diverse influences. It's a cradle of creativity, only second to London when it comes to the number of people employed in creative sectors. A testament to this is how The National Film Board of Canada has soared to become a global frontrunner in the realm of virtual reality and interactive cinema, bagging six Webby Awards in the current year. Unsurprisingly, Montreal is also a global hub for the gaming industry, ranking third in video game production, and is a powerhouse in visual effects, coming in at fourth worldwide.
Cobbled Rue Saint-Paul in downtown Montreal. Photograph: Alamy
Arts centres such as downtown’s PHI offer constant streams of pioneering creative content, from boundary-pushing theatre and music to digital art installations, ground-breaking cinema and more. And the more creative the city becomes, the more creative people come here. There is a palpable sense of ingenuity and imagination on the streets.
And there’s plenty to do, too. This summer sees the Mural Festival of street art (9-19 June), a Circus Arts Festival (7-17 July), the Montreal International Fireworks Competition (2-30 July), as well as events for comic books, kites, folk music, rock’n’roll and reggae. Montreal now has the biggest comedy festival in the world – Just for Laughs (13-31 July), this year hosting Jimmy Carr and Russell Howard from the UK, often in small, intimate venues – not to mention the world’s largest jazz festival (June 29-July 9).
More than one local I met said their only complaint was that they felt guilty for having a night in.
Electronic Enlightenment
There is a thriving pulse of modernity and innovation in Montreal, particularly evident during its annual celebration of digital arts, the Numerique Printemps (on until June 21). I had the captivating opportunity to voyage through a gallery showcasing realistic virtual reality simulations of poignant World War I images, framed by a sober backdrop of innumerable gravestones. As the evening evolved, I found myself engrossed in a psychedelic, 360-degree visual extravaganza at the trendy tech-art bar and gathering hub, S.A.T. This city has a knack for serving up unexpected adventures.
If you're interested in embracing the purest essence of Montreal’s vibrant culture, early summer is the optimal time to visit. The city enters a state of hibernation in winter, as temperatures plummet to frostbite inducing lows. However, there are a few adventurous souls that find joy in dancing outdoor, clad in neon ski suits even in -35C! When summer finally arrives, it's as if the entire city erupts in a symphony of joy and colour. Eateries and watering holes are bustling, mellifluous sounds waft through the air, blooms unfold and hues take over the cityscape in a display reminiscent of children gleefully dashing out post the final school bell of summer.
Picture yourself amidst the lively chatter in a cozy pineapple-inspired bar nestled in Chinatown known as Le Mal Nécessaire.
Your Montreal journey might begin here, unraveling the night with laughter elicited by the renowned Canadian comedian Heidi Foss. As the night deepens, you might find yourself in Little Italy at an excitingly nostalgic pinball machine spot, the North Star. Origianlly, listening to the melodies of Seb Black at the Emery Street Studios was on your agenda, but intriguingly, your night comes to an end with a hefty serving of poutine at Patati Patata on your table, after downing impressive bowling-pin-sized beers. This could be a typical night in Montreal, but there is nothing usual about this city.
Don't think of Montreal as a new Brooklyn or a sequal to Seattle. It's definitively not a piece of France, the UK or the USA, and it doesn’t quite fit Canada's mold perfectly either. Montreal presents itself as a distinct, island city. Old Montreal's Place d’Armes features unique statuettes depicting a French lady with a poodle and a British gentleman with a pug. Although the human forms are illustrated to be turning their backs to one another, the eager pups seem to want to frolic, encapsulating the spirit of this one-of-a-kind city.